Epic Road Trip to the Four Corners: Part II

Fire damaged trees in Mesa Verde National Park

Thanks for following along with me on the first half of my two week road trip to the four corners region of America. Following my night in Durango, CO, I continued west to Mesa Verde National Park. Unfortunately it was too late in the season to go on a guided tour of a cliff dwelling, but I did manage to stay at the lodge in the park just in time; that would be closing the day after my stay. Mesa Verde has been photographed to death, I spent more time just “being there” than I did photographing, and when I did bring out the camera I enjoyed photographing other visitors more than the dwellings. Just taking in the landscape was more rewarding than trying to photograph it.

I had all morning to continue exploring Mesa Verde before again heading west to Monument Valley in Arizona. This is another place that has been photographed to death (including John Ford), but I’ve always wanted to see it. I elected to get a guided tour by a Diné (Navajo) tour company, which was worth it. It saved some wear and tear on my vehicle since the road through the park is pretty rough, but it also allowed me into parts of the park off limits without a tour. Our guide, Marjorie, also provided us with information about the Navajo culture. The tour ended at sunset and I again mostly just enjoyed “being there” or photographing visitors photographing the valley.

Marjorie, my tour guide through Monument Valley

I stayed at the hotel located within Monument Valley Tribal Park which made staying for sunset and waking up for sunrise much easier! The next day I made a loop to some cultural sites located in southeast Utah. But on my way out I had to stop by “Forrest Gump Point,” where in the movie Forrest Gump the protagonist decides to stop running after going nonstop for years. “I’m pretty tired…I think I’ll go home now.” Forrest Gump Point has become so popular the state of Utah had to build additional turnouts and erect signs warning motorists of pedestrians. In my time there quite a few cars stopped, and a large number were actually foreigners on vacation.

From there I visited much more ancient cliff dwelling sites in the region before making my way towards Mexican Hat, UT, for the night. On my way to Mexican Hat I came across the Moki Dugway, a steep road that switchbacks down a sheer cliff from the top of a mesa. The view from the top was unbelievable since it was basically just a straight drop to the floor below. At the top of the Moki Dugway I also visited with Alice, a member of the Navajo Nation, who was selling handmade jewelry. Her mother is over 100 years old and one of her daughters is a professional chef. She also told me about a nearby spot overlooking the San Jose River called Muley Point that I didn’t know about, it was a pretty spectacular spot I wouldn’t have known about had I not spoke to Alice. After making my way down the cliff I made a quick stop at Goosenecks State Park before calling it a night at Mexican Hat where I had the entire motel to myself.

Tourists standing where Forrest Gump stood

The view from the top of the Moki Dugway near Mexican Hat, UT. The road below is where you eventually end up.

Alice, a member of the Navajo Nation, selling her handmade jewelry from the top of the Moki Dugway

The next day I had a leisurely drive to make to Bloomfield, NM. On the way though I stopped by Hovenweep National Monument and the Lowry Pueblo. I also actually made it to the Four Corners monument but only had about five minutes to spend there before it closed. It was then on to Bloomfield to spend the night.

Make it stand out

The road to Hovenweep

I stayed in Bloomfield, NM, because it was the closest town with a motel to the Chaco Culture National Historic Park located southwest of Nageezi. I wanted to spend the entire day at Chaco and I did. Chaco contains massive pueblos built by the Ancient Puebloan Culture 800 and more years ago. It’s a lot to try and explain here, I suggest researching it, or better yet, visiting it. Standing in the plaza of an 800 year old pueblo that was five stories high is an experience you can’t replicate. I took some photos, but again, mostly I just enjoyed being there. After spending nearly all day at Chaco I made a mad dash for Las Vegas, NM, and spent the night at the Regal Inn, featured in the Coen Brothers film No Country For Old Men. I spent a little time photographing Las Vegas at night and happened across a closed western wear store that was also featured in the film.

A closed western wear store in Las Vegas, NM. The interior was used in the film *No Country For Old Men.*

I woke up to overcast skies, frost, and fog in Las Vegas, but at least avoided the snow the country to the north got. I had to get to Fort Lupton, CO, that evening but didn’t want to go directly there via I-25, instead electing to take back roads out onto the New Mexico plains. One town I went through, Roy, presented endless opportunities for photographs. Roy has the distinction of being the brief home of Bob Wills when he was a barber just before hitting it big with his “Western swing” style of music. I made my way up the New Mexico and Colorado plains to arrive in Fort Lupton where I would stay with an aunt and uncle for a day before beginning the last leg home.

José was passing through Roy on his way to Solano, NM, which was named for some of his ancestors. He had never visited the town before.

My aunt had an appointment with Craig, a horse Ferrier, the next morning to have one of her horse’s hoofs trimmed. We spent the rest of the day in Denver, but the next day they invited their friend Casey over to visit. Casey is 95 and had a career on the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railway starting as a switchman in 1947. He had some great stories to tell about the old days of railroading. His other hobby was collecting and restoring cars. After visiting with Casey most of the morning I had to hit the road towards home. I stopped in a few more Colorado plains towns to photograph, including Keota. I didn’t realize it at the time, but I nearly recreated a photo of Keota taken by Farm Security Administration photographer Arthur Rothstein in 1939. The photo was labeled as “town abandoned due to continuous crop failures.” I spent the night in Alliance, NE, my last night on the road.

Craig, a horse Ferrier, smooths out a horse hoof after trimming near Fort Lupton, CO

Casey is 95 and started his railroad career in 1947

Arthur Rothstein’s FSA photo of Keota in 1939

In my last day on the road I had to get from Alliance back to North Dakota. It didn’t leave a lot of time for photos but I did make a few along the way, including an abandoned bar in Scenic, SD, and an old car with a message at Conata, SD. Since I was so close I had to stop at Wall and visit Wall Drug. Even though the place is a tourist trap they have a fantastic book store. I usually find a book or two in there and this trip was no different. I made my last photo of the trip in Midland, SD, at my favorite abandoned place, a combined service station and cafe that closed in 1997. I would’ve loved to have been there when it was open. From there it was just a long drive back home. My trip odometer ready EXACTLY 4100 miles when I pulled into the driveway.

Epic Road Trip to the Four Corners: Part II

My Top 10 from 2023

Epic Road Trip to the Four Corners: Part I